The truth is hard to stomach, especially when it comes to
our food. The simple fact is, we have become disassociated with what we are
eating. How many of us know the journey of our food? Where it comes from?
What’s its story?
Perhaps we just don’t want to know. Like Marian in the
previous post, you would think twice about tucking into that steak if it
suddenly became gristle and sinew. Despite this, a number of chefs such as
Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, believe knowing the
truth is an important part of appreciating your food and have slaughtered animals on air in order to provide an
insight into the world of meat manufacturing. Surprisingly it was vegetarians
and vegans who praised this the most, because they believe in the necessity of
educating people about where meat comes from, whereas meat eaters everywhere
were outraged by what they were watching. However, exposing the truth behind
our food isn’t a modern phenomenon and we have seen examples of it on this course,
especially in Alice B Toklas’s food memoir Murder
in the Kitchen.
In the following extract she talks about
killing a carp:
“The first victim was a lively carp...I
carefully, deliberately found the base of its vertebral column and plunged the
knife in. I let go my grasp and looked to see what had happened. Horror of
horrors. The carp was dead, killed, assassinated, murdered in the first, second
and third degree. Limp, I fell into a chair, with my hands still unwashed
reached for a cigarette, lighted it, and waited for the police to come and take
me into custody.'
The
description is reminiscent of crime literature. The animal is a “victim” and
Alice is the murderer, given the task of its assassination. To distract the
audience from the gruesome task in hand, she adopts a comedic tone. She lights
a cigarette after the deed, much like a hardy and satisfied criminal, then
awaits her arrest.
Despite
the humour, she draws attention to our discomfort around the killing of our
food. We laugh while inwardly cringing, wondering whether we could stomach the
process itself.